All Is Well: A Journey Through Faith, Nature, Survival

Between the beauty of the Himalayas and the terror of a landslide, we learnt that faith, courage, and providence walked with us when nature tested our limits.

In the previous article, I shared how our journey began at Govindghat, with a scenic trek leading us to Ghangaria, the base camp for the Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib. That beautiful walk set the stage for the unforgettable experiences that lay ahead.

Here, we continue the trek as I take you back to some of the thrilling moments we experienced in 1998.

During the trek, our guide shared a warning that stayed with me. He said that some flowers in the Valley of Flowers, such as the Himalayan blue poppy, are poisonous and so toxic that even their fragrance can be hazardous. We were strictly told to return before sunset. Although I didn’t fully grasp the seriousness of the situation then, I followed every instruction, staying close to my parents.

As we walked, I was overwhelmed by the view. Wildflowers in every imaginable colour spread across the valley, carpeting the land in vibrant hues. It was the first time I had seen such abundance and beauty. In that moment, I felt the greatest artist is God, as if divine hands had painted the earth into a living masterpiece.

Our group moved steadily forward and soon reached Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara, located at approximately 15,200 feet, the world’s highest-altitude Gurudwara. I was awestruck. With no visible road or clear way to transport materials, its serene presence beside a lake that freezes in winter felt nothing short of miraculous.

Inside, the Gurudwara served langar to all visitors without distinction. We were given hot tea in large glasses, and as I warmed my hands, I took in the breathtaking surroundings. The silence, the mountains, and the sacred space merged into a moment of deep realisation.

That was when I truly understood a great truth of life: being close to nature brings unmatched peace, humility, and fulfilment. The journey didn’t just cross mountains and valleys; it quietly reshaped my inner world.

Many times during the trek, I felt like giving up and returning to the base camp. My body was exhausted, and my mind wavered. But I learnt an important lesson: a steady, moderate pace makes even the toughest journey manageable. My parents gently reminded me not to hurry, and I walked beside them. Those slow, encouraging moments remain among my most precious memories with them.

We were meant to be on this journey for nearly twelve days, and until then, everything had gone smoothly—until we were pressed to leave Malpa Village.

As we passed through this village, we faced a life-threatening incident. Malpa, a small village in Uttarakhand’s Pithoragarh district, in the Kali Valley of the Kumaon Himalayas, is a known stop on the Kailash Mansarovar route. It later became infamous for the devastating landslide of August 18, 1998. Little did we know that our own experience there would shake us to the core.

The massive landslide struck as we were passing through a narrow mountain stretch. It was terrifying. About 24 of us were inside the bus when a huge rock suddenly rolled down and crashed onto it. For a moment, we truly believed the bus would be pushed into the valley below.

By God’s grace, it didn’t happen. Our driver showed remarkable presence of mind and skill, calmly accelerating the bus toward the safest stretch of road. In the chaos, my father and one of our group members, Anil Kaka, stepped out despite the danger to assess the road and guide the driver. Watching my father face such risk was one of the most frightening moments of my life.

Thankfully, their courage and clarity helped us move forward. The bus reached a safer stretch, and they climbed back inside. When we saw the damage—a massive dent on the roof where the rock had struck—it was a chilling reminder of how close we had come to disaster.

We didn’t stop and drove straight to Badrinath, shaken but safe. The next day, we heard the devastating news that Malpa village, which we had just crossed, was completely destroyed by the landslide. Many lives were lost, including the renowned Odissi dancer Protima Bedi and members of her group.

This news was really very heartbreaking for us. Also, at the same time, we were not able to contact our family because there was no phone connection. So we were really stressed…

That time we leaned forward, Lord Shiva in this beautiful temple, and were hoping to get things normal.

In the next article, we will continue this life-threatening real experience. So, stay tuned.

(The writer is a tourism professional and runs a company, Global Voyages. She could be contacted at goglobalvoyages@gmail.com. Views personal.)