Crossing The Khalubar Ridge: A Humbling Recollection

Each one of us knew instantly, every time a martyr passed us, that it could have been any one of us instead.

It was early July 1999. In the harsh mountains of Ladakh, the Indian Army had already fought many battles to evict enemy intrusions across the Line of Control. After initial setbacks due to underestimating the enemy’s preparedness for a prolonged campaign, our units were making steady progress, securing one ridge at a time and pushing the enemy back toward the LC.

One notable ridgeline in the Batalik Sub-Sector was the Khalubar Ridge. In early July 1999, the 70 Infantry Brigade successfully dislodged the enemy from this well-fortified position, but it came at great cost, claiming the lives of many brave officers and soldiers from 1/11 GR, 12 JAK LI, and 22 Grenadiers.

With the Tricolour fluttering atop Khalubar, some units were tasked to cross Khalubar Ridge and push towards Munthodhalo to reclaim the LC. My Assault Team was one such unit. We were to cross the Ridge where 22 Grenadiers had fought valiantly over the past days. This battalion had a unique composition: a Muslim company, an Aheer company, a Meena company, and a Jat company. Coincidentally, it was the Muslim Company (Charlie Company) that faced the fiercest combat atop Khalubar. The enemy resisted stubbornly, counterattacking multiple times after Charlie Company’s initial success under Major (later Brigadier) Ajit Singh. Major Ajit and his men held their ground for three days and nights. Many soldiers of 22 Grenadiers made the supreme sacrifice, most from Charlie Company.

A section of 22 Grenadiers Battalion Headquarters was to guide our column for two reasons: to prevent “Identification of Friend or Foe (IFF)” issues amid the night’s fog and chaos and to provide logistical support—replenishing battle-fatigued soldiers and sending fresh troops to evacuate their martyred and injured comrades.

We started immediately after last light from the base of Khalubar Ridge. The aim was to cross the entire mountain feature in hours of darkness, reach Munthodhalo bowl before first light, and take harbour. Our column could achieve this as planned after a hard and serious night-long march over the boulder-ridden terrain with steep gradients. This July night is still vivid in my memory, not because of the physicality of this march but because of what we experienced en route and how it left unforgettable impressions on our minds regarding soldiering, camaraderie, and the uncertainties of life.

As we ascended, 22 Grenadiers’ martyrs were being evacuated, one after another, wrapped in sleeping bags and carried on comrades’ shoulders. The battle had drained the unit—every jawan was fatigued and short of sleep, food, and rest. Darkness, boulders, and steep gradients made the task gruelling. Four men carried each body, already stiff with rigour mortis, rotating every 75–100 metres. Eight men were assigned per martyr, and for hours they slowly descended, giving their brothers an honourable farewell.

Meenas carried a Muslim, Muslims shouldered an Ahir, Ahirs evacuated a Jat, and Jats evacuated a Muslim. Caste, creed, or religion made little difference amongst this Band of Brothers.

Every time a martyr passed through our ascending column, we saluted in unison. No command was required. It came naturally to us. None of us knew any of them since we were from different units. But each one of us knew instantly, every time a martyr passed us, that it could have been any one of us instead. We counted a total of ten fallen heroes that night, being carefully carried by their brethren towards the base. And we saluted each one of them. They had fought their last battle and fought it damn well; meanwhile, we were inducting another Ridgeline to fight our battles.

In the next three weeks, we fought our battles alright. The physical ones against the adversary, as also the battles of our minds. The adversary was evicted beyond the LC watershed through multiple successful attacks by the Formation before the end of July. Most of us lived to tell our tales, but some did not. And while fighting these battles, we drew inspiration from those who had fought before us and those who were being carried on the shoulders of their comrades that night for one last journey before an honourable burial or cremation. The ones we had saluted on the Khalubar Ridge.

The poignant memories of that night still humble me. The camaraderie and esprit de corps our officers and soldiers display are priceless and something to be very proud of. The glory and success of the Indian Army are built on such strong foundations of brotherhood and regimentation that the Army shall continue to make the country proud, both in peace and war.

(The writer is an Indian Army veteran and Vice President CRM, ANSEC HR services Ltd. He is a skydiver and a specialist in Security and Risk management. Views personal.)