top of page

By:

Rajendra Joshi

3 December 2024 at 3:50:26 am

Kolhapur’s Pilgrimage Paradox

Kolhapur: Even as the state government clears the first tranche of Rs 1,500 crore under an ambitious Rs 5,000-crore plan for the development of Kolhapur as a major pilgrimage centre, the ground reality for devotees tells a far less reassuring story. Each month, the temple’s donation boxes swell by an estimated Rs two crore, while crores more lie parked in bank deposits earning interest. Yet, for the thousands who arrive daily to seek the blessings of Goddess Ambabai, the journey to the...

Kolhapur’s Pilgrimage Paradox

Kolhapur: Even as the state government clears the first tranche of Rs 1,500 crore under an ambitious Rs 5,000-crore plan for the development of Kolhapur as a major pilgrimage centre, the ground reality for devotees tells a far less reassuring story. Each month, the temple’s donation boxes swell by an estimated Rs two crore, while crores more lie parked in bank deposits earning interest. Yet, for the thousands who arrive daily to seek the blessings of Goddess Ambabai, the journey to the sanctum begins with an ordeal—walking barefoot on scorching roads under an unforgiving sun. With temperatures in Kolhapur soaring past 40°C, asphalt and concrete roads leading to the temple radiate intense heat. For devotees—many of whom travel hundreds of kilometres—this translates into a painful trek, quite literally. The situation is particularly harsh for senior citizens, who are often seen hopping from one foot to another in a desperate attempt to avoid the burning surface. In such conditions, the absence of even basic protective arrangements raises uncomfortable questions about priorities in pilgrimage infrastructure. Stark Irony The irony is stark. While policy blueprints and financial approvals move through bureaucratic channels, immediate, low-cost interventions remain unaddressed. Simple measures—laying heat-resistant carpets along key approach roads, ensuring regular water sprinkling to cool surfaces, and erecting temporary shaded canopies—could significantly ease the devotees’ distress. Such steps do not demand massive outlays, only administrative initiative. As chairperson of the temple trust, the Kolhapur District Collector is uniquely positioned to catalyse this response. The summer vacation period only amplifies the challenge. Families flock to Kolhapur in large numbers, often combining visits to Ambabai temple with pilgrimages to nearby shrines such as Jyotiba. The surge in footfall transforms the temple precinct into a sea of humanity. Yet, the infrastructure has failed to keep pace. A similar concern was flagged last year as well, with limited, ad hoc relief provided by a few local traders who laid makeshift carpets for their customers. This year, however, little appears to have changed. Humane Pilgrimage The issue, therefore, is not merely administrative—it is collective. The responsibility to ensure a humane pilgrimage experience cannot rest solely with the temple trust or the municipal corporation. Traders and business associations operating in the temple vicinity, who benefit from the steady influx of devotees, must also step forward. Kolhapur has historically demonstrated remarkable civic spirit during festivals such as Navratri and the Rathotsav. Extending that ethos to provide shaded pathways during peak summer would be a meaningful gesture of reciprocity. Across India, leading pilgrimage centres have invested in visitor comfort—air-conditioned waiting areas, chilled drinking water, and clean sanitation facilities are increasingly the norm. In many cases, nominal user charges are levied, and devotees are willing to pay for such services. Kolhapur risks falling behind if it does not address these gaps with urgency. At its core, the issue is one of dignity. Devotion should not come at the cost of physical distress. Until basic amenities are ensured, the promise of transforming Kolhapur into a premier religious tourism hub will remain incomplete. For now, the pilgrim’s experience continues to echo a troubling refrain: first the searing heat beneath the feet, and only then, the grace of the goddess.

The Inner Voice of a Silenced Queen

Pratibha Ray restores Draupadi’s voice, placing her inner life at the centre of the epic.

Yajnaseni: The Story of Draupadi by Pratibha Ray is a striking work of literary reimagining. First published in Odia in 1984 and later translated into English, the novel revisits one of India’s most complex figures in mythology through a deeply personal lens.


A recipient of major honours such as the Moortidevi and Sarala Awards, Ray retells the Mahabharata not as a grand epic of heroic men but as an intimate narrative of a woman whose voice has long been silenced. The novel brings Draupadi’s inner life to the centre of the story.


Yajnaseni thus emerges as a feminist revisioning of the epic. Where Vyasa’s narrative presents Draupadi largely through male speech and action, Ray restores her narrative authority, positioning her as subject rather than object.


Draupadi is given space to think, feel, question, and critique the forces that shaped her destiny. The novel’s epistolary form—a long letter to Lord Krishna written in her final hours at the foothills of the Himalayas—is not merely a stylistic choice but a means of laying bare her inner world.


Through these letters, Draupadi reveals her inner conflicts, emotional resilience, and intellectual depth. No longer a distant mythic figure, she emerges as fully human, grappling with questions of agency, dignity, love, loss, duty, and identity.


Her voice is marked by clarity and candour. When she recalls Yudhishthira’s words during the Pandavas’ final journey—“Do not turn back to look! Come forward!”—they become a symbol of existential betrayal, signalling a refusal to acknowledge her suffering by those who owed her their lives.


In anguish, she asks why she must endure “the whole world’s mockery, sneers, innuendos, abuse, scorn and slander.” The question reflects her acute awareness of the unrecognised emotional and moral labour demanded of women in cultures that prize self-sacrifice yet offer little compassion.


This inner voice also carries a sharp social critique. Draupadi’s marriage to the five Pandava brothers—one of the epic’s most contentious episodes—is presented not as destiny but as a violation of consent and autonomy. Ray makes explicit what the traditional text only implies: Draupadi had no real choice, and polyandry, far from ennobling her, exposed her to enduring social scorn.


In questioning Lord Krishna—“Did I have no say?” and “Was I man’s movable or immovable property?” —Draupadi exposes how patriarchal dharma enforces wifely submission at the cost of personal will and dignity.


This aspect of her inner voice lies at the heart of the novel’s power. Ray refuses to romanticise Draupadi’s suffering, portraying her anger, alienation, and resentment as both legitimate and necessary, and replacing the ideal of the self-sacrificing woman with a figure who challenges rigid cultural norms.


Ray’s Draupadi is not merely reactive but reflective and intellectually engaged. She repeatedly interrogates the moral frameworks used to justify her humiliation. Why should dharma excuse injustice? Why must loyalty to others override her own aspirations? These questions form the core of her inner life, not rhetorical ornament.


By placing Draupadi’s internal monologue at the centre of the narrative, Ray bridges ancient and contemporary debates on gender, identity, and autonomy. Speaking to Krishna, Draupadi reflects not only on past betrayals but also on the meaning of womanhood in a world shaped by male authority. This act of reclamation resonates with modern feminist thought, positioning her voice within wider struggles for self-definition.


The significance of Yajnaseni extends beyond literary innovation. As Draupadi questions and critiques the norms of her time, Ray invites readers to confront enduring cultural patterns, with her inner voice reflecting society’s unresolved tensions around gender, power, and moral hypocrisy.


Her reflections on humiliation, loyalty, justice, and dignity challenge not only the epic’s characters but also its readers, prompting a re-examination of values that continue to shape gender relations. In this way, the novel speaks as forcefully to the present as it does to the past.


Ray’s Draupadi refuses to be reduced to a passive symbol of virtue or victimhood. She embodies a balance of strength and vulnerability—loving Krishna, respecting her husbands, yet questioning them with intellectual resolve. Her emotional journey is one of self-assertion rather than endurance, giving the novel lasting relevance in contemporary discussions of women’s agency.


Yajnaseni is thus more than a retelling of an ancient epic. It is a powerful act of reclaiming silenced voices and reworking cultural memory. Through Draupadi’s inner voice, Ray reveals the psychological and emotional depths of a heroine who has long been overshadowed by male-centred narratives.


Speaking with intelligence, passion, and moral urgency, Ray’s Draupadi makes the novel both an intimate meditation and a forceful social critique. In an age that increasingly challenges monolithic histories and foregrounds marginalised voices, Yajnaseni stands as a vital work—one that reminds us how inherited stories shape our present and affirm women’s enduring struggle for dignity, autonomy, and the right to speak.


(The writer is an assistant professor of English literature. Views personal.)

Comments


bottom of page